The Carefree Cook Hardback - 2003

Excerpt

Soups
It is appropriate that this book starts off with soups, because there is no other category where the cook gets such a payoff for the time invested. Chop up some vegetables, toss in some meat, and let the pot simmer into a wonderful conglomeration that can be served immediately with salad and bread for a quick meal, or stored for the future. My freezer is packed with containers of homemade soups. When I think I don't have a thing

To eat, it's great to discover that chicken soup in the freezer. It's best to make big batches to be sure that there are those leftovers to squirrel away. (The few soups in this chapter that don't freeze well have smaller yields.)

The soups in this book are purposely "fork-and-knife soups." They are rib-sticking, chunky, hearty affairs that you will most likely eat with a fork and knife as well as a spoon. They are not delicate soups for light first courses at elegant supper parties but soups with backbone to fill you up.



The Carefree Cook's Tips for Soups

Use a large heavy-bottomed pot Don't try to crowd soup ingredients into a small pot. The ideal utensil is an 8-quart pot with a heavy bottom to discourage scorching. Pots with stainless-steel or enameled interiors are best, because they don't pick up flavors as easily as unlined pots.

Don't rush the cooking For my meat soups, I usually include tough, bone-in cuts that add lots of flavor to the broth. But they need time to simmer and become tender. Use a moderately low flame so the soup cooks at a steady simmer. A hard boil is bad not only because it leads to burning, but also because it suspends the fat in the broth, resulting in a stable emulsion, and a greasy-tasting soup. (Even if the soup chills and you remove the hardened fat, it will still taste greasy.) Stir the soup occasionally to be sure nothing is sticking.

Be careful when blending pureed soups Soups can be pureed in a food processor or a blender, or directly in the pot with an immersion blender. Each machine has its own caveats. With a food processor, the pureed soup has a tendency to leak out of the center shaft area. To avoid this, puree in batches to avoid overflow. Transfer the soup solids to the work bowl with a slotted spoon and process, adding just enough of the liquid to keep the soup level from rising above the top of the center tube.

With a blender, the velocity of the blade can create a strong jet of steam that forces the scalding-hot soup up, pushing off the lid. Vent the lid by leaving it slightly ajar, and start the machine on low speed, or pulse, to puree the soup. Better yet, replace the lid with a kitchen towel, as the steam will pass easily through the fabric's weave.

Immersion blenders are great, but they take some getting used to. They are not as fast as food processors or blenders, but most cooks who have one prefer them to the other machines. Just keep the "business end" of the blender immersed in the soup and watch out for splashing.

Stock up on covered containers Unless you are serving a crowd, you will have leftover soup with most of these recipes. Be sure to have a supply of good containers for storage. Because there are lots of leftovers in my life (testing recipes will do that), I purchase cases of 1-pint and 1-quart plastic containers with lids at a local restaurant supply or wholesale club. Although they are designed to be disposable, they can go through the dishwasher to use again a few times. You can buy smaller quantities of containers from your delicatessen or supermarket at a very reasonable price. The 1-pint size is perfect for single servings, and the 1-quart works well for about three bowls. These containers make efficient use of small freezer spaces.

Chinese Beef, Bok Choy, and Noodle Soup Under 30 minutes

Makes 4 servings

As a frequent customer of the noodle shops in New York's Chinatown, I am constantly amazed at how fast they can get a steaming hot bowl of soup on the counter. Of course, the secret is to have everything ready before you get started. If you have the time, freeze the steak for about thirty minutes or so to firm it up--it will be easier to slice. Bean threads, also called cellophane noodles, are made from soybeans. You'll find them in the international section of most supermarkets or at Asian grocers.

2 skeins (about 2 ounces total) bean threads

12 ounces boneless beef sirloin steak, trimmed of excess fat

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large shallot, thinly sliced (about 1/3 cup)

2 tablespoons shredded fresh ginger (use the large holes on a box grater)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 medium head bok choy (11/4 pounds), root end trimmed and leaves cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide slices, or substitute 3 cups sliced (1/4-inch-wide) napa cabbage

2 cups canned reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon chili paste with garlic or 1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes



1. Remove any strings from the skeins of bean threads. Place the bean threads in a small bowl and add enough very hot tap water to cover. Let stand while you prepare the soup.

2. Holding the knife at a 45-degree angle, cut the steak across the grain into thin slices (holding the knife at this angle makes wider slices). Cut the slices into pieces about 3 inches long.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan over high heat until very hot. In batches, without crowding, add the beef and cook, stirring occasionally, until it loses its pink color, about 11/2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the saucepan. Add the shallot, ginger, and garlic and stir-fry until the shallot softens, about 1 minute. Add the bok choy and stir-fry until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, 2 cups water, the sherry, soy sauce, brown sugar, and chili paste and bring to a boil.

5. Meanwhile, drain the bean threads and return to the bowl. Using kitchen scissors, snip through the bean threads a few times to make shorter lengths (this makes them much easier to eat with a soupspoon). Stir the beef and bean threads into the soup. (The soup can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.)

6. Ladle the soup into deep soup bowls and serve hot.



Chinatown Shrimp and Spinach Soup

Substitute 12 ounces peeled, deveined medium shrimp for the beef and stir-fry until it turns opaque, about 3 minutes. Substitute 8 cups loosely packed baby spinach (about 7 ounces) for the bok choy.


Soy Sauce

There are countless brands of soy sauce, which is made from a brew of fermented, aged, and distilled soybeans. The problem is that each producer has its own recipe, and the quality varies enormously (I have ruined a recipe by using a soy sauce that was too strong). To confuse matters further, there are three grades: light (not to be confused with low-sodium), medium (also known as thin soy sauce), and dark (with added molasses, and sometimes called superior soy sauce--which is not an indication of quality), as well as mushroom-flavored soy sauce. Asian cooks use each of these differently.

What's a Westerner to do? Supermarket soy sauce is usually a Japanese brand with reliable quality and flavor, so that's what I recommend. Traditional Asian cooks can argue that it is worthwhile to appreciate the differences among the three soy sauce varieties, but for everyday cooking, I am very happy with the supermarket brand.

Media reviews

“Educator, author, chef, friend–Rick Rodgers has mastered each. The Carefree Cook deliciously illustrates his commitment to the home cook. From delightfully elegant gourmet dishes to backyard American favorites, Rick has created user-friendly recipes that beg to be made and devoured by family and friends.”
--Martin Yan, cookbook author and host of public television’s “Yan Can Cook”

“So you don’t know what to cook for dinner. Rick Rogers does. This engaging culinary pro will walk you through 150 recipes that you’ll really want to make, whether it’s a slam bam supper or a Saturday night soirée.”
--Pam Anderson, food columnist, USA Weekend, and author of How to Cook Without a Book


“Rick Rodgers immediately puts the cook at ease–explaining each detail and guiding you through the recipes. This book is filled with Rick’s legendary knowledge and passion for cooking. The Carefree Cook is a must for anyone who even thinks about cooking!”
--Jeffrey Nathan, chef, public television personality, and cookbook author

“Rick Rodgers, ‘America’s Cooking Instructor,’ has written another wonderful cookbook that helps families create delicious meals with ease. Every family needs this book, which allows cooks to spend more time with loved ones and less time in the kitchen.”
--Art Smith, author of Back to the Table: The Reunion of Food and Family

“Rick Rodgers is a man who knows how to cook a great tasting meal without a lot of fussing around in the kitchen. He may be a carefree cook, but it is obvious that he cares about good cooking!”
--Patti LaBelle

“This is an irresistible collection of recipes that will make you want to get into the kitchen and cook, cook, cook.”
--Marie Simmons, author of Fresh & Fast: Inspired Cooking for Every Season and Every Day